Two Wheels To There

Two Wheels To There

Two Wheels To There

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Pherther-Grams

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The mid-May weekend was looking decent, so Surtch Pherther, jonesing for a desert rip, would hit dirt again. He’d aimed to dark-wander with good tunes and smoke, but ride-tired and for the week’s work and a nightfall chill, was fine turning in early to breeze on the fly and nothin’ otherwise. The next morn, he tracked dawn up a near, near-familiar ridge for fossil-hunting and a sudden snake-watch after a biggun rattled itself know, and then throttled off for fuel, food, and a Bud at a state-line oasis, where he met two dudes who’d cycle-slogged two-hundred-fifty-ish miles through downpours and desert heat just to carve a glacier.

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The mid-May weekend was looking decent, so Surtch Pherther, jonesing for a desert rip, would hit dirt again.  He’d aimed to dark-wander with good tunes and smoke, but ride-tired and for the week’s work and a nightfall chill, was fine turning in early to breeze on the fly and nothin’ otherwise.  The next morn, he tracked dawn up a near, near-familiar ridge for fossil-hunting and a sudden snake-watch after a biggun rattled itself know, and then throttled off for fuel, food, and a Bud at a state-line oasis, where he met two dudes who’d cycle-slogged two-hundred-fifty-ish miles through downpours and desert heat just to carve a glacier.
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A Mire, a Maunder, and Musings – 2011.10.09

Published on January 29, 2017 by admin 13 Comments

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

Escape Artist lay kill-switched in the sludge of Lambstone Valley Road while dumbfounded Surtch Pherther wondered how it had simply slipped away.

At a sudden hum down draw, he swiftly stooped to right the ride, and a small rattletrap pickup on accidental slicks squirmed around the bend. It was the balding, ragged dude that had lazy-waved from a slouch in his collapsed driver’s seat on the remoteness side of Threshold Pass.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

“Hey, bud, need a hand?”

“Nawww,” Surtch’s voice strained at his bike’s heft, “but thanks, really.”

“So, d’ya know where it goes, if the slop gets worse?”

“I swapped here, went wide, the shoulder sucked my rear, and I fought the shit sideways… Or so it seemed.” He was glad for the full-face obscurity. “Yeah, up through the junipers to a saddle and then down steep ’n’ tight to Kinscore Pass—it’s bound to worsen before it gets any better.”

“Hmmm… Well,” smiling wryly, “I gotta give it a shot. Good luck, bud.”

“Hey, you too, man—you too.”

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

Fake-adjusting his gear, Surtch discreetly watched Escape Artist’s right mirror for ragged dude’s disappearance, unsteady and sluggish, before quickly remounting to slow-flee that scene of his latest embarrassment.

Aiming left from the right shoulder’s slant to drag him down, over-gassing ’til his ass wagged like a tease or a taunt, and with his feet as outriggers, he muck-touched off ’n’ on the miry mile back to Lambstone’s Y-junction with the gravelly Mochila Trail.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

It had been a week of autumn everywhere—cold and damp in the City of Contradictions, snow atop the Westwitness Peaks, and in the remoteness, rain galore and a dusting on its heights—a carpe diem season in a life that Surtch Pherther had lately been striving to live so.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

From a Lost Springs pit stop, south he shot on terra seemingly firming up, through a riverbed anciently dammed by lava and recently “haunted by desert fairies”, and then swayed a way into the Wapiti Hills on the floor from a prehistoric lake that happened thirty times in a million years and left soil so wistful for wetness that Surtch thought, I can go on slow and nowhere fast, or stick it swift in a soggy patch and get handlebar-hung or somersault-flung to a fate face-first into scrub and stone…

So, at the broad valley’s head, he pulled aside and shut off his ride, dropped the stand on some tuff and dismounted, grabbed water and snacks and a cheap cheroot, and struck off for some outcrops ’cause, when all else failed, there was always lone wandering, the best companion he’d ever had.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

Many say such spaces house spirits of those gone before, and though these places had always enchanted Surtch, he felt he had no right to such thoughts. Not only was he naturally skeptical of claims of singular connection and exclusive communion, for they smacked of charlatanism and of power-lust by the cunning and of those in the know versus the damned if they never get it, but he believed that his legacy precluded his access.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin
“Hellooo down there, Escape Artist…”

He’d always been uneasy about it, that his race flooded the New World and expanded west and drove tribes from their ancestral domains—tribes that then were seen as savages but since as resourceful dwellers amid severe ‘scapes that offered little for bodies but maybe much for the famished soul.

And though he could only guess why his ancestors had crossed oceans, he knew why they’d trekked west: to flee persecution by their countrymen in this land of religious freedom, persecution for a belief that Surtch had twice or thrice tried—with a sincere heart, with real intent—but failed to embrace, a belief that failed to embrace him.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

Many would allege that he hadn’t prayed hard enough or that his character was flawed, but after spending over half his life fitfully trying to cram in that puzzling piece of a confounding creed and racking his brain and wrenching his soul and lacking proof that he was being heard, whispering alone in the dark had become absurd to Surtch, and waiting for something transcendent to reach back, vain.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

“My ancestors,” he said at the void, “devout great-granddad whose name I bear, what would you think of me, this non-kindred kin? Would you embrace me, or shun me? Would you be proud, or ashamed?” He ground out the spent cheroot. “No, none of us have to look very hard to feel we don’t belong where we are.”

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

When he came down from the mount, though the daily ground beneath his feet would remain as fluid as always and as everyone’s, that ancient lake-bed terra had meanwhile firmed up enough for a carefree, late-afternoon ride out of the remoteness—and… And the skin of his face shown.

Surtch couldn’t wear his ancestors’ beliefs—they wouldn’t have been fooled by the poor fit anyway. And he couldn’t bear burdens for his race—no one could for any. Sure, Manifest Destiny might have been rationalization for bad behavior, but in many ways the won West was a good thing.

Besides, from his experience, in his life, it boiled down to the only scripture that had ever made sense to Surtch—to love thy neighbor as thyself. After all: Go back a ways and we’re all from elsewhere. Go back all the way and we’re all from the same place.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

Filed Under: Escape Artist, the remoteness Tagged With: kinscore pass, lambstone valley road, lost springs, mochila trail, motorcycling spills, real characters, religion, solitude, the remoteness, threshold pass, wandering, wapiti hills

From Strangers to Friends Ne’er to Meet Again – 2011.09.17

Published on November 4, 2015 by admin 10 Comments

“Pardon me. Don’t you manage the South Contradictions Post Office?”

“Sure do. Deb’s the name.”

“Surtch Pherther… You, um, you might not recall, but I was there earlier this year, and you dashed out to ask about the F800GS…”

Deb’s bright eyes glinted, her kind smile became a wicked grin, and she walloped Surtch upside the shoulder. “You! It was you! This,” she said, pointing fiercely at the Triumph Tiger beside her, “this is your fault. Of course, I’ve girlied it up with flower power, on the top case too, but… Paul,” she hollered, flicking her silver ponytail as she craned her neck,” hey, Paul, this is the guy I mentioned, the one I chatted with about these big dirt bikes. Remember? Surtch Pherther.”

“Oh–seek, and ye shall find, huh?” said a ball-capped, bearded fellow on his way back from a nearby conversation.

“Ha, yeah–sometimes,” replied Surtch. “If one’s fortunate.”

“I’d like to be able to say it’s nice to meet you”–Paul smiled wryly–“but that infamous chat cost me the price of a new motorcycle–”

“And gained you a riding buddy, it seems to me,” returned Surtch, with a wink at Deb.

“Ah, true.” Paul hung his head in feigned shame. “That’s true.”

“Well, it’s certainly my pleasure to meet you. And, Deb, the flower stickers just rock–”

“Okay, everyone, listen up!” It was Mitch, one of the RoughLether Rides leaders, from across the clearing. “We’ve set these mini cones for some slow turns, so watch as my brother Steve demonstrates. And remember what we covered earlier, in the dirt lot below–be light on the throttle and the clutch, twist your outside leg in to force the bike down with your knee, and resist target fixation, especially on that front wheel. See? Just like Steve’s doing, despite his old knees. The main difference between this and a regular cone weave is that this ground is uneven and soft in spots… Now, earlier we split you into groups, so group one, saddle up and line up over here.”

“That’s me,” said Surtch.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

He joined the line behind an F650GS ridden by a self-described throttle junky with whom he’d bantered a bit already.

“You know,” said the throttle junky through his full face, “these RoughLether guys are first-rate. They really know what they’re talking about. We’re lucky to be able to do this–free of charge, no less.”

“I don’t know, man. When I got my GS, I picked up a few DVDs by some fellows in Colorado… Yeah, yeah, videos aren’t live instruction–I know how you’re lookin’ at me–but their techniques are intuitive, like simply shifting weight from peg to peg in turns. That makes tons more sense than the hokey pokey twist your outside leg in and force the bike down with your knee contortions that these dudes are selling.”

“Oh, don’t fool yourself. These guys are pros. I just wish I’d been able to ride my dirt bike, but you know, a free class offered by the dealership… I didn’t wanna disrespect.”

“Remember your own words, ‘When all else fails, just crank the throttle!’ And look, others are on non-BMW dirt bikes. Hell, take arm-sling guy–he can’t even ride, but he still gets a free lesson and lunch out of it. The dealership and the RoughLether dudes don’t seem to mind.”

“It wouldn’t have been right. Still, this bike just doesn’t belong up here. I mean, it’s a Beemer.”

“Whoa! Hold up, throttle junky. You’re on a GS that’s sporting a pannier sticker that reads ‘GS: It’s a Tool, Not a Jewel’–I’m lookin’ at it right now, man–and here you’re tellin’ me that the bike doesn’t belong on mild gravel and dirt? Come on! Just swap those chrome crash bars for ones a bit less blingy, and you’ll be fine.”

“Oops, it looks like I’m up.”

“Oh yeah, ain’t that damned convenient. Ride away, man–just ride away!…”

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

That morning, Surtch had downed a Mcbreakfast, ridden ten-ish miles in the almost-autumn chill, and rolled in at the dealership, having about turned back for the large group already gathered there. Once inside, he’d helped himself to a styro-cup of office brew (a crutch for his nervousness) and then wandered awhile before stumbling upon a natural chance for conversation, with arm-sling guy.

“It’s gotta be impossible enough to ride street with your throttle-hand hung up like that. You’ll be working magic if you run dual-sporting drills.”

“Yeah, I thought I might skill-up by osmosis.” It seemed a ready response. “A few weeks ago my Speed Triple’s front brakes were worked on, not by the dealership. I got it back the night before a track day out at Salina Raceway. Anyway, I’d ramped-up on that back straightaway, you know.” Surtch nodded for the sake of the tale, though he’d never been on the track. “I squeezed the lever at the end sweeper, and those brakes just blew apart on me. I went down in a cloud of gravel and dust and ended up with hardware in my shoulder after surgery.”

“Holy shit!” Surtch cringed. “I won’t ask about the bike.”

Arm-sling guy went silent for a moment, his downcast gaze distant. Then he sighed. “I was unlucky then, or maybe lucky–I don’t know. But this morning,” his voice perking up, “this morning I’m just a fool. Here I woke early on a cold Saturday to attend this thing where I can’t even ride, leaving a fine, little brunette alone and warm in my bed. Damn,” he shook his head in feigned lament, “what a fool I am.”

Surtch chuckled, wondering which made arm-sling guy a greater fool–his leaving a “fine, little brunette” alone in his bed, or his getting involved with a woman who apparently had no interest in all things motorcycle. After all, thought Surtch, for many, religiousness is a condition for romance, so why shouldn’t moto-obsession be–a condition for romance and a religion?

3b_RoughLether Rides at the City of Contradictions BMW Dealership

From introductions and instruction at the store, the group had ridden (looking like an ad) a few miles east to a foothills dirt lot where the RoughLether Rides leaders prepped drills while laggards arrived. One suited-up retiree rode his fully-loaded R1200GSA into the space ahead of where the rest had stopped abreast, and too slow he tried too tight a turn. The struggle was short and the spill soft as the mega-machine eased over like a bloated sow, but something flickered in the fellow’s face: passing embarrassment, of course, but a bigger something too–a deepening distress that was born the moment he first rode the big bike off the lot.

Likely he lived unremarkably, for decades punching clocks and pinching pennies and keeping his yard on the weekends, and then one day it was a film or an ad or a chat with a pal… He got haunted by adventure bike visions–the biggest bike he could get–of going all geared-up and full tilt into a future of untold sunsets and exotic ‘scapes and ever-remote horizons, visions at which he was the center, of course, in which he was the hero. Reality, though–the machine’s heft and the serious skills required for its seemingly easy manipulation off road–didn’t measure up and was now slowly crushing the poor fellow’s dreams beneath. It was heartbreaking, and Surtch wondered if he was the only one who’d seen it.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

Back at the clearing, Surtch finished his go at the slow turns, switched off Escape Artist, removed his helmet, and casually walked up beside Deb and leaned in. “Hey–you see that squashed cone out there?… Yeah, I did that.” Deb cracked up and threw her arm around his back and gave him a great, big shoulder-squeeze.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

“Gather ’round, everyone, gather ’round.” It was Mitch again. The day was near mid-afternoon, and all of the riders had done the drill. “Today you leave with a few new things–a brief intro to what we offer at RoughLether Rides, a handful of dual-sporting skills, and most important, new friendships. Because few pastimes bring people together like motorcycling. Now, be safe, and remember, RoughLether Rides wants to be part of your next adventure… Oh, and one more thing–Steve and I are at Hotel Contradictions downtown and will be in the bar around seven for a few beers. Or is that in a few hours for seven beers, Steve? I forget. Either way, y’all are welcome to join us.”

The group thanked Mitch and Steve and the dealership crew, and though most continued to chat and linger thereafter, Deb and Paul geared up quick and got back astride their rides.

“We’re already late for another engagement,” said Deb, “but this was worth it. It’s been fun, everyone.” And while leaving the clearing, she made a slow pivot on a soft spot and suddenly was tilted a bit too far. Stretching her legs, her feet, her tippy-toes for a firm flat-foot or two, and straining her arms against the bike’s heft, she fought the fall, but the fall won. With an oops-rev and a thud, the Tiger had toppled, and Deb, on her back in the dirt, was laughing hysterically. The group passed glances and then broke into applause and hurrahs. Deb stood, dusted herself off, and grinning big, looked around and then bowed grandly.

Meanwhile, Mitch had strode over and kill-switched the Tiger, and after cheering with the others, he made it a teachable moment on how to raise a fallen adventure bike.

“Steve and I have observed,” he said, after he and Deb had righted the ride, “that men and women usually react to motorcycle falls as they do to failing relationships. Whereas most men will leap clear, so as not to get caught in the wreckage, most women will fight to their last to keep the thing alive…”

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

It… It, a constant companion–it, the critical self–it, that incessant monologue… Though Surtch sped the urban interstate home that afternoon, it would not be out-ridden, nor–however loud the wind and the road noise and that sweet internal combustion song–would it be drowned out:

Dammit, Surtch, throttle down!–Coppers lurk in these here parts–What the hell’s up with the different dual-sporting techniques, anyway?–Have others noticed?–It’s like the bike makers build freakish machines just ’cause they can–We have to learn what to do with ’em, how to ride the damn things–What kind of crazy-ass business plan is that?–“Build it, and they will come?”–Ha!–Creating a product will create its market too?–It’s like they all wanna be Steve Jobs…

It’s only mid-afternoon on a Saturday, Surtch, but it’s September–Winter’ll be here soon–Where do you go from here?–Where do you want to go, Surtch?–Should I join ’em for beers?–You know you want to, to confidently join strangers for beers and easy conversation–You’ve always wanted to be that…

You’ve made progress, haven’t you, Surtch?–You’re getting better at this, right?–Right?… Surtch?… Right?…

Filed Under: DeLusiville, Escape Artist Tagged With: motorcycling skills, real characters

Seeking a Suitable Truth – 2011.07.24

Published on February 28, 2015 by admin 3 Comments

00_2011.07.24

From the old countries, exotic to each other, to a land foreign to all but its sons and daughters… From Home, to a place to pass innumerable nights… From the bustling east–by rail, wagon, horse, and their own blistered feet–to the spirit-testing and body-breaking west they came.

01_2011.07.24

From their proud, stern fatherlands they stepped with heads held high and legs atremble. From their dear, sweet motherlands they weaned themselves, and there and here folks wept. For fortune they forged toward the new frontier, as to the new world their forefathers had fled oppression. Or so the textbooks tell.

02_2011.07.24

02R_2011.07.24Are anyone’s reasons ever really two-dimensional? Should anyone’s reasons ever be oversimplified? As we are complexly human, so were they, and multifaceted beings must be allowed to have multifaceted motivations. Many might have come for solitude, challenges, fame, for adventure. For that which drives us now must have driven many then.

03L_2011.07.24They came, settled, labored, dreamed. They moved, stayed, and sought elusive wealth. They worked hard and took pride in the work they did. They lived, loved, dispersed. Oh, how they struggled. And they perished, often tragically. It seems they sought so much—maybe unwittingly.

04_2011.07.24

Oh, the subtleties and secrets of our seekings…

05_2011.07.24

En route from Saxton, back to the City of Contradictions, Surtch Pherther stopped for a breather at middle-of-nowhere-in-the-remoteness Outpost Inn. Under the fuel canopy, he switched off Escape Artist on the slowly shifting sand of a shallow drift. At the foot of the nearest gas pump, a huddle of small tumbleweeds seemed to cower, maybe stricken with fears of flame and of being crushed.

Into the noise void left by the shut off bike, a scene-typical sound rushed without turbulence, like hot oil: that strange, high sizzle that often accompanies sweltering wastes. An insect chorus? Faint crying of expanding sand and stones? Maybe a several-source small symphony. Or just the ringing in Surtch’s ears.

07_2011.07.24

He grabbed a cold drink and slumped onto the bench of a weathered picnic table in the shade of a juniper. The day, barely past noon, was already over 100 Fahrenheit, and shade in such heat can serve only the psyche, never the body.

08.9R_2011.07.24Yet Surtch had cut his teeth on desolate terrain—in its extremes his personality was minted. He’d tried to dissect the enchantment, but it defied; tried to understand his attraction, but he defied. Perhaps that was why he persisted—for understanding.

Religious friends and family had often said that some things simply weren’t meant to be understood. Over and over and over again, Surtch had tried to subscribe to religion, but the publication always seemed to get lost in the mail. Maybe they were right about this… If it would risk his enchantment to understand, he knew he’d rather remain a fool.

10_2011.07.24

Nearby, next to their unbelievably overloaded bikes, three cyclists read and rested. Reticent though they were, Surtch succeeded in gathering that they were far—from their origin, from their destination, hell, from a city of any consequence. Yet maybe not from a suitable truth, for stitched in Hebrew on one bike’s panniers was Proverbs 9:6 “Forsake the foolish, and live; and go in the way of understanding.”

11_2011.07.24

Common motivations, even the drive for adventure, might fade, the unessential of them even becoming unfashionable. But the desire for a suitable truth?… That could be one of humankind’s common denominators and the base to which all other motivations must be anchored.

A suitable truth: which isn’t necessarily a tailored truth or a religion to conform to one’s “sinful” ways, but a truth that penetrates the filters of one’s experience—a truth that makes sense. For an unsuitable truth, however eager one might be for its absorption, will never take.

Filed Under: Escape Artist, Saxton Tagged With: art, outpost inn, real characters, religion, solitude, the remoteness

Surreality Salt-Sand, Smoke, Steam, and Sheep Skins – 2011.07.23(a)

Published on February 13, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

0.2011.07.23(a)

With his right grip fore and his left grip back a few, engineer Harry pumped the levers in unison once, twice, thrice, paused, and then pushed and held them in like a conviction. A low whirr led to a short rev and then–KA-WHUMP–the 70-year-old diesel-electric rolled coal to the roof and chug-chug-chugged thunderously to life, shimmy-swaying like a quaking drunk. Surtch Pherther’s jaw dropped. It was thrilling, but suddenly he wanted to get the hell off that stirring beast. He clutched Harry’s hand, shook involuntarily, thanked him for everything, and then jittered down the nearest ladder and watched from terra firma as Harry drove out for the noon tour…

1.2011.07.23(a)

Surtch had landed in Culbert at the posted speed that morning after low-flying at 90 the final forty-five miles. He’d been worried about missing his appointment. It turned out, having not figured for timezone hop, he’d arrived about an hour early, so he wandered the sleepy few streets of the old smelting- turned ranching-town. Finally, after some pleasant hours with curator Dan at the cute Culbert Museum, Surtch had eagerly headed for the old Saxton Depot and Railyard, fifteen miles on.

2.2011.07.23(a)

He’d been solo-strolling the engine house for a while when Harry had approached and said, “Come, I’ll show you my favorites”. They bypassed three locomotives–two working, one wanting–for a wrecking crane and a rotary snowplow, all steam and from the early 1900s; in a forge at the back, they gaped at a great pneumatic hammer, yet another mechanical monster in the railyard’s little land of giants; and they discussed Saxton’s evolution from mining bust-town to rail tourism and how the City of Contradictions and its outliers North DeLusiville and Witt have their own similar pasts.

3.2011.07.23(a)

After the depot and following a brief stop at the charming regional hodgepodge of the County Museum in Saxton, Surtch was drooping from the early start, the long ride, the full day, and the heating afternoon, so he hit the nearest gas station for drinks. In the lot he met a Cadillac Texan who momentarily marveled that the F800’s twin wasn’t a single, “though that’d be a helluva single”, and then went on about crazy Europeans who were supercharging Triumph Rocket Threes so that “no mere mortal could knee-clench those torpedo-cruisers”.

4.2011.07.23(a)

5NR.2011.07.23(a)Grabbing a Gatorade for refreshment and a Coke for a fix, Surtch rolled down to Saxton’s big city park, unusually green for the desert and delightfully bordered with ancient Cottonwoods. He took a shaded spot just as a group of bagpipers walked in and began playing.

It was surreal: From dawn in little, middle-of-nowhere Aridia, where he’d downed coffee and breakfast beneath a casino’s e-marquee flashing “Extreme Midget Wrestling!”, to the time machine railyard and his excitement on the waking locomotive, to a dozen bagpiping pros practicing in the park in small, desert town Saxton… He was tempted to think, smugly, “only here, in my corner of the world,” but he knew that wouldn’t have been true. And Surtch was grateful for that.

Filed Under: Escape Artist, Saxton Tagged With: aridia, art, culbert, mines, railroads, real characters, wandering