Two Wheels To There

Two Wheels To There

Two Wheels To There

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Pherther-Grams

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The mid-May weekend was looking decent, so Surtch Pherther, jonesing for a desert rip, would hit dirt again. He’d aimed to dark-wander with good tunes and smoke, but ride-tired and for the week’s work and a nightfall chill, was fine turning in early to breeze on the fly and nothin’ otherwise. The next morn, he tracked dawn up a near, near-familiar ridge for fossil-hunting and a sudden snake-watch after a biggun rattled itself know, and then throttled off for fuel, food, and a Bud at a state-line oasis, where he met two dudes who’d cycle-slogged two-hundred-fifty-ish miles through downpours and desert heat just to carve a glacier.

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The mid-May weekend was looking decent, so Surtch Pherther, jonesing for a desert rip, would hit dirt again.  He’d aimed to dark-wander with good tunes and smoke, but ride-tired and for the week’s work and a nightfall chill, was fine turning in early to breeze on the fly and nothin’ otherwise.  The next morn, he tracked dawn up a near, near-familiar ridge for fossil-hunting and a sudden snake-watch after a biggun rattled itself know, and then throttled off for fuel, food, and a Bud at a state-line oasis, where he met two dudes who’d cycle-slogged two-hundred-fifty-ish miles through downpours and desert heat just to carve a glacier.
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A Century Cold and “All the Time in the World” – 2011.08.13(a)

Published on April 12, 2015 by admin 7 Comments

Leaning aloft through banked sweepers known just to them, cliff swallows skillfully, thrillfully swooped about the spacious kilns…

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

Surtch Pherther had tiptoed over the threshold, through the inner dimness, and–opposite the archway, five feet high, and below the loading window, fifteen above–settled to the cool, earth floor and against the thick, stone wall still charred from the kiln’s last firing over a century back.

Yes, they were cold, for over a hundred years and nightly since: thirty-six-thousand-five-hundred plus and counting. Necessarily stout, they easily trap the small hours chill that’s regular for their near-prairie setting and greedily hold it through even the hottest, August day.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

As Surtch held still, the flighty dwellers began to return, swooshing in and then circling the dome-cone ceiling once, twice, thrice–the echoes of their wingbeats, amplified by the odd acoustics, sprinkling all around. At last alighting in their little, mud cups–removed from ground threats and sheltered from the terrain’s frequent tempests–they’d either nestle out of sight, or rest their colorful heads abrim to peep at goings-on below….

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

It had been 15 years since a youngish self of his had first, and last, seen the Tumen Creek kilns, while taking the long way home from a camping weekend with his kin. The curious, middle-of-nowhere monoliths were a surprise to him and his folks and remained a mystery to them for months thereafter. In the years since, the state had fenced out free-rangers, laid a footbridge over a deep ditch, placed a picnic table and info boards, and begun masonry restoration.

Surtch thought it a shame it had taken so long for them to be deemed worth preserving. Yet it was akin to the usual fate of the great, structures, societies, and souls alike: subject to history’s glacial-pace consideration–its eyes ever-focused on the fuzzy future, its mind ever-appraising the distant past.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

Once-upon-a-time, when many were plagued with gold fever, the Wild West was plentiful with such kilns, used for smoldering wood into a hotter-, cleaner-, slower-burning fuel for forges and smelters. Yet for the Italian immigrants’ pride, sweat, and skills that went into their construction, the productive lives of most kilns were short–for mining busts and the advent of the transcontinental railroad, of course, but chiefly for their own appetites: Over a mere thirteen days, a 30 foot by 30 foot kiln could reduce about 30 cords (3,840 cubic feet of wood) to a quarter of its bulk as charcoal.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

As folks in ranges west laid claim to prospective mother-lodes, and in the nearby Cairn Mountains to hundreds of acres of forest, Tumen Creek and most other Wild West towns laid claim to notorious outlaws and notable frontiers-people such as Butch Cassidy and Calamity Jane.

Now, on a rise overlooking the site and its wild cemetery, Surtch envisioned a host of happy ghosts and contemplated cliff swallows, grassland critters, the constant breeze, and the only enduring symbols of Tumen’s most noteworthy claim: about two-dozen gravestones, mostly of infants, children, and mothers (were and were to have been). Though it was the typical tragedy for towns of its type and time, to them it was just life–life unjust.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

By slab, Tumen Creek was a patch past a hundred miles from the City of Contradictions, but by Surtch’s mid-morning route over Harbinger Pass and by South Morgan Reservoir and through quaint Smithton, up Calbon Creek and over its dirt saddle head, across West Cairn Road and past Myers Reservoir, it was… It was… It was… Who knew? It was more, or it was less–and that more or less didn’t matter.

Though the two modes of transportation are about getting there, each arrives at it differently: Automobiles embody the “there” of physical destinations and map pins and switching off the key; and motorcycles, as Surtch further welcomed with every outing, embrace the “getting” of thrills on tread-testing turns and the quest for oneself on that journey from point A to B-b-b-beyond…

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

Back at Escape Artist, he donned his gear, threw his leg over, and gazed east at a ridge-cresting road he’d never been on. It was already a few hours past noon, but it was a Saturday in August, sure to be long with summer light and warmth.

“I’ve got all the time in the world,” thought Surtch, “all the time in the world…”

Filed Under: Escape Artist, Tumen Creek Tagged With: cairn mountains, charcoal ovens, flow, ghost towns, ruins, solitude, wandering

To Embrace a Lent Rhythm – 2011.07.30 / 08.06

Published on March 15, 2015 by admin 2 Comments

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

“Every future has a beginning, and I must start sometime if I’m going to learn this.” Surtch Pherther loathed truisms. Yet for nearly two years he’d been repeating relevant ones as a sort of mantra. Or rather, he’d been repeating them when clarity of thought permitted, when he wasn’t squinting from deep inside the mindquake’s murk, his eyes straining for signs of light.

He was as cautious to declare the quake’s brutal occupation nearly over as he was uncertain about its pinpoint beginning. Superstition, as well as uncertainty, informed that caution: He wasn’t so reckless as to proclaim “evicted” until his precious mind was again well-fortified to keep another quake at bay, or at least strong enough to fight like hell.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

As a verb, as an action, “fight” had been all but erased from his vocabulary, and as a noun, as an object, it was severely faded. It is sheer cruelty when actions are stolen before their objects, when one can still know where he’d rather be, but no longer possesses the vehicle to get there. “Fight” without being able to is like placing water beyond a thirsty man’s reach, like cutting a barred window into the wall of a lifer’s cell.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

Time is supposed to heal all wounds, but that can occur only if enough time, a subjective variable, follows the wounding. After all, the passage of one’s time can be ceased too easily, impulsively.

In some respects, time seemed slow for Surtch, and always in short supply. He suspected that was true for most. His dear sister and dear brother had recommended re-engagement, and sure, he needed that, but not as mere diversion: Surtch wanted engagement activities as gappers of distance. He couldn’t control time, but he sure as hell could try to fill it, and enough magically amplifying activities crammed into a span could relegate a bleak bookend further into the perceptual past.

Such pseudo-intellectual language intoxicated Surtch, or had once-upon-a-time. The question, and his top concern now: Could it help to restore him?…

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

For Surtch, riding pavement on the Vespa he’d owned for over three years was second nature from the start: There’d been no learning curve with twist-n-go. Well, none aside from the embarrassment early on when, with a few new garden hoses strapped to the back rack and seat, he’d lost control of the throttle in Home Depot’s crowded parking lot.

Yeah, that’s right–lost control – of his scooter‘s throttle – in a lot teeming with testosterone…

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

His first dual-sporting-on-dirt hurdle was psychological and somewhat cartoonish as well: his hyperawareness that a freakishly tall, 450 pound internal combustion pendulum was swinging beneath him erratically, and his sneaking suspicion that it harbored a secret desire to ride him through the gravel and dirt, rocky ruts, and mud.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

Surtch knew the sensation he was seeking, had ridden with it briefly on that gently bounding and dodging road through the Wapiti Hills on his first two-wheeled foray into the remoteness, an outing that ended in a ridiculous spill: Surtch with a bloody nose, a throbbing leg, and sorely wounded confidence; and weeks-old Escape Artist with some minor cracks and scrapes. He had nevertheless scented the game.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

He recalled a younger self that grew up skiing with his dad and siblings. In the steep-n-deep, magic moments would happen, but not through his efforts: It was as though the sought sensation wasn’t the commands that he sent down through his legs to the skis and snow, but a lent rhythm that rose from the living earth through its deep powder to him, a naive recipient.

It would occur for a few turns or for half a run and then recede. It was difficult to describe, but he knew when it happened and that it was as the goal. Surtch also remembered that it seemed to despise being discussed.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

It was like that passage from Kerouac’s Big Sur:

“…I remember that frightening thing Milarepa said which is other than those reassuring words of his I remembered in the cabin of sweet loneness on Big Sur: ‘When the various experiences come to light in meditation, do not be proud and anxious to tell other people, else to Goddess and Mothers you will bring annoyance’ and here I am a perfectly obvious fool American writer doing just that not only for a living (which I was always able to glean anyway from railroad and ship and lifting boards and sacks with humble hand) but because if I don’t write what actually I see happening in this unhappy globe which is rounded by the contours of my deathskull I think I’ll have been sent on earth by poor God for nothing…”

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

The last thing Surtch wanted to do was bring annoyance to Goddess and Mothers. But Kerouac had understood–and it remains as true and at least as crucial–that there must be witnesses. Otherwise, there is no possible testimony. Otherwise, it’s as though nothing exists, as though nothing occurs.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

We cannot borrow rhythms, thought Surtch–that’s a power we don’t possess. They can only happen, or be lent–by the living earth, the humming cosmos, or the Almighty itself. What’s left to us is to recognize the rhythms and embrace them if we can.

We might be adrenalin addicts, dosing up on that fine line between here-for-now and gone forever; might be throttle jockeys, testing grounded flight at high revs in fifth and sixth on highway tarmacs; might be lean-freaks, teasing the tenuous threshold between grip and slip while feeding our craving to carve – those – curves; might be rhythm fiends, moved by that mesmeric tango between throttle control and a rising, falling, dodging road.

One thing’s for sure, though… We are like eager youths, desiring the seductive ways and skillful touch of the next thrilling sensation.

Surtch Pherther at Two Wheels To There: A motorcycle blog by Ry Austin

Filed Under: Escape Artist, Fur Trap Ridge Tagged With: cairn mountains, flow, quotes, solitude, the mindquake

From Ruins to Ruined – 2009.10.31

Published on February 13, 2015 by admin 2 Comments

There was a smother of dust–Surtch Pherther could taste it. There was a low idle and a rhythmic click… click… click… And there was intense, sharp, dull, sharp, dull throbbing in his right leg. Yet somehow he managed to stand, weighting left, favoring right. Through hazes of mind and dust, he gazed back along the dirt road. At about three yards lay the right pannier, its immobilizer hyperextended. At his feet lay Escape Artist, just weeks old.

Gingerly, he began trying to “walk off” the severe pain that was centered in his knee and was surging up and down from there. Luckily, no bones were broken. What remained concerning was a coinciding quivering weakness–his knee threatened to give at any moment. And, of course, that annoying click… click… click…

“Shit!” Suddenly realizing that Escape Artist was still running, its rear wheel off the ground and turning, he hobbled over and hit the kill switch.

1.2009.10.31

Surtch began inventorying the physical pieces and trying to collect the mental ones, to assemble the puzzle of the incident: There was his downed bike and its dumped pannier, the desolate road in the remoteness, the throbbing in his leg… And scattered in the pale dust around him was what looked like a small fortune of brown coins; against Escape Artist’s bright yellow, what appeared to be drops of crimson paint; and dripping from his face, what certainly was blood.

He knelt with difficulty, removed his thin leather gloves and crooked half shell (his full face helmet was back ordered), and inspected himself in the mirror. Blood was smeared across his mouth, chin, and right cheek and was trickling from his nose. With a left hand pinch, he stanched the flow, and with his right hand, fumbled through the attached pannier’s tossed contents for tissue to wad. He then limped out to the dumped pannier and, with his free hand, carry-dragged it back to the scene. He cleaned his face with dabs from his canteen.

5.2009.10.31

Surtch had rounded the south end of Lost Springs Peaks en route to Kinscore Pass and had become lulled by the gentle bounding and dodging of the road–of course, the throttle might have creeped a bit too. Cresting a rise, he’d seen a sharp turn ahead and a small washout between. The next thing he’d known was the dust, the clicks, and throbbing pain. He must have panicked and grabbed the front brake. As for the bloody nose, he could only guess that he’d punched himself when his elbow hit the ground upon his going down.

He righted Escape Artist–tweaked handlebars, cracked fender, scraped side, and all–and rehung the pannier, securing the mangled immobilizer with “just in case” toeclip straps he’d packed with him.

Surtch’s motorcycling maiden voyage into the remoteness had begun well: He’d roller-coasted the Wapiti Hills of golden bunch grasses, late-blooming sagebrush, and humble junipers, and had continued around to the west side of Barrel Mountain toward a spring of the same name. He’d found the map-marked ruins he’d gone seeking, and though merely concrete foundations and slabs, they were mysterious installations in the middle of nowhere, without clues to indicate their purpose. He had wandered around, kicked through settlement debris typical of such sites, and eaten some snacks before mounting up and returning via the same Wapiti Hills roller coaster.

8.2009.10.31

Sure, his leg was throbbing something fierce, but it would heal; Escape Artist was tweaked and cracked and scraped, but it could be repaired; and his pride was injured, but he was old enough to know that pride is just vanity, skin deep. It was his wounded confidence that worried Surtch. For that can act like a repressed memory, can embed, can become hard like a stone, can surface later, and can reopen and get infected. Surtch knew all too well that wounded confidence can corrupt.

Yeah, the day had begun well.

Filed Under: Escape Artist, the remoteness Tagged With: barrel mountain, flow, kinscore pass, lost springs peaks, motorcycling spills, ruins, wapiti hills

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